Sheridan Square
After a nasty split with The Russian Tea Room, M.I.A. chef Gary Robins resurfaces at this Village restaurant with American touches and a global spirit. “It was very unfortunate that it didn’t work out,” he tells us of RTR, which booted the chef in early 2007 in the wake of plunging sales and cutbacks. “If they don’t want you to use the ingredients that you can be proud of, it doesn’t make sense to keep your name on the project.” He’s now staking his name on Sheridan Square, an elegant, tin-ceiling’d spot which he helped conceptualize. The centerpiece: a wood-burning oven and grill—the better to bring an “earthy, rustic smokiness,” Robins says, to items like grilled Carolina trout with honey-ginger vinaigrette, and rosemary-crusted rack of lamb. Asian ingredients (yuzu, tamarind, anise) and luxe international touches (foie gras ravioli, dayboat fluke “sashimi”) reflect Robins’ deep experience (Biltmore Room, Aja), as does his loyal staff: Over 80 percent, he says, have worked with him before and date back to his days at Aja. (138 Seventh Ave. South at 10th St., 212-352-2237)

Kafana
The East Village knows Europe, all right: from German (Zum Schneider) to Ukranian (Veselka) to Russian (Odessa)—hell, it’s even got an E.U. Now arriving at Gate 3: homey Serbian joint Kafana. Hearty apps (feta-filled phyllo pastries) and mains (lamb-and-spinach stews) are but distractions to the main draw: a spectacularly pork-intensive menu that makes David Chang and Mario Batali looks like flextarians. Think pork chop, smoked pork loin, schnitzel with ham, and bacon-rolled-whatnots (prunes, chicken liver). Our arteries just got clogged writing that. (116 Avenue C, between Seventh and Eighth Sts., 212-353-8000)

Vino
Honk if you’ve just about OD’d on wine bars. The latest entry: this relaxed Tuscany-inspired spot on the Upper East Side, whose collection of vinos line everything from the walls to the recessed ceiling. Flip through your enoteca dictionary, and you’ll hit all the bases. File under “rustic”: wooden tables. File under “chic”: vintage chandeliers. File under “varietal”: a 60-bottle-deep wine list. File under “traditional”: bites like lasagna and baby octopus. Yep, we’ve definitely flipped through this book before. (1268 Second Ave. between 66th and 67th Sts., 212-744-5370)

Brooklyn Ice House
To the uninitiated, the depths of Red Hook can seem like Mad Max meets the Old West—it’s no shock to see a tumbleweed blow past a sweaty hipster carrying groceries from Fairway. Which makes this no-frills watering hole is a perfect addition to a no-frills ‘hood. Owner Trevor Budd, a Ginger Man alum, spent the last 12 years saving cash so he could open his own spot, which now occupies the old Pioneer Bar-B-Q space. The diverse beer menu features four brews on tap and 30 bottles, from upscale Hitachino Nest White Ale to two-buck bottles of Carling Black Label. On top of the wet stuff, Budd's still putting his predecessor's smoker to work and serving pulled pork sandwiches, brisket and hot dogs, with plans to fill out the menu with burgers in the upcoming weeks. And if you're looking for lighter fare, there are always quirky bar snacks like Hershey's Kisses and chips and salsa to fill your gullet. (318 Van Brunt St. at Pioneer St., no phone)


Also open:

A new season, a new menu and a new look for uptown chameleon Park Avenue Summer. (100 E. 63rd St. at Park Ave., 212-644-1900)

Burgeoning chain Cheeburger Cheeburger plants its first real flag in NYC in Forest Hills, Queens. (There’s a location at JFK—doesn’t count.) (108-50 Queens Blvd., 718-997-8600)

Atlantic Avenue spot Blue Marble Ice Cream brings its eco-friendly eats to a second location, in Prospect Heights. (186 Underhill Ave. between St. John's and Sterling, 718-399-6926)

Pan-Latin bites—from ceviche to paella to churrasco—abound at East Village newcomer Yerba Buena. (23 Avenue A between First and Second Aves., 212-529-2919)

Park Slope bar Quarter is offering a free grill out back for boozers who wanna prep their own grub. (676 Fifth Ave. at 20th St. Brooklyn, 718-788-0989)

More fro-yo mania, with another twist: all-organic milk, sugar and toppings at the aptly named Yorganic in Midtown East. (805 Third Ave.Sts., 212-832-9800 between 49th and 50th )


Recently closed:

Ninth Street Market (East Village)
Le Figaro (Village)
Valdino West (West Village)
Table 30 (Astoria)
Azure (Midtown East)


Additional reporting by Jeremy Cesarec. Photo by Sam Horine.

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