Hot Plates

Bite-size dish on new restaurants: Yerba Buena, Talay, Red Egg, Annabelle's

By Alexis L. Loinaz

Metromix
June 11, 2008

 
Hot Plates
Pan-Latin bites at Yerba Buena
Yerba Buena
Former East Village Brazilian spot Samba Le has cha-cha’d its way out to make way for this new pan-Latin restaurant with a touch of Havana cool and swath of savory bites. Lechon, paella and ropa vieja anchor a menu that showcases “more traditional Latin cuisine using different techniques and ingredients,” according to co-owner Giovanny Campos, who helped open both Chicama and Pipa. Rabbit meatballs with Manchego cheese? Yep, not something that pops up at your regular cantina. Neither are the prices—between $19 and $27 for entrees, so bring the dinero. The restaurant’s name refers to an all-purpose minty herb used in everything from health remedies to cocktails—which works just fine for PDT vet Artemio Vasquez, whose infuses it into house’s signature drink (Bacardi 8, demerara syrup, fresh lime). Because, of course, usually your remedy is a cocktail. (23 Avenue A between First and Second Sts., 212-529-2919)

Talay
What is slowly shaping up to be an unlikely restaurant hub—West Harlem (see: Hudson River Café, Dinosaur Bar-B-Que)—now has a new reinforcement for the troops: this bi-level Thai-Latin joint serving up dishes like crispy shrimp with fried plantains and braised beef with daikon, plus some small plates. Fusion, yes, but not too out-there since “we want to keep it familiar to the neighborhood,” says Laos-born co-chef Soulayphet Schwader, a former chef de cuisine at BLT Steak in Washington, D.C. He’s also incorporated some his mother’s recipes, including lemongrass baby back ribs marinated in oyster sauce and fish sauce. The color-splashed space has already gained a quick following among Columbia students, professors and locals; expect the outdoor patio, which opens in a few weeks, to keep them coming. (701 W. 135th St. at Twelfth Ave., 212-491-8300)

Red Egg

Evoking the celebration of a baby's one-month birthday (with a traditional Chinese "red egg and ginger" party), this long-delayed Chinatown restaurant has welcomed a new child into the New York culinary world: Chinese dim sum and Peruvian cuisine. The young owner, whose father was in the dim sum game and mother did time in a Peruvian community, updates the traditional hectic Chinatown model with a modern, clean and streamlined design (hardwood, mirrors, funky lightbulbs). The all-day, dim sum–intensive menu comes smattered with Latin influences, mixing dumplings and noodles with sea bass, snapper and ceviche. (202 Centre St. at Howard St., 212-966-1123)

Annabelle’s
Though it's no longer the Brooklyn Siberia it was before The Good Fork, Baked and (gasp) Ikea, Red Hook is still a pain-in-the-BQE-traversing-arse trek away from the nearest train. Going for Annabelle's, though, a modern bar with culinary pedigree, is Neil Ganic, a hot and hot-headed Yugoslavian-born chef who drew crowds at La Bouillabaisse in Brooklyn Heights (and its later incarnation, Bouillabaisse 126) and Petit Crevette. They follow him here for the French-American/seafood/bar-foody cuisine, the beer on tap, the live music and the pier-side outdoor space. (44 Beard St. at Dwight St., Red Hook, 718-643-1500)
 

Also open:

Cobble Hill patisserie Sweet Melissa expands next door with an ice cream stand and 30 more seats. (276 Court St. at Douglass St., 718-855-3410)

More Didier Virot at the Plaza: The veteran chef behind the hotel’s Palm Court follows up with a pared-down menu at its lounge bar, Rose Club. (1 Central Park South at 59th St. and Fifth Ave., 212-759-3000)

Traditional Persian fare on the Upper East at Shalizar, from the same folks behind nearby Persepolis. (1420 Third Ave., between 80th and 81st Sts., 212-288-0012)

Soho Asian staple Mooncake Foods brings affordable finger foods and sandwiches to the Garment District. (263 W. 30th St. between Seventh and Eighth Aves., 212-268-2888)

Global wines flow freely at the new Harlem wine bar Nectar. (2235 Frederick Douglass Blvd, at 121st St., 212-866-9463)


Recently closed:

Costa Del Sol (Midtown West)
Hopscotch (East Village)
Yolato (Village)
Chez Brigitte (West Village)


Photo: Sam Horine

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